Bali You Beauty- Best Bits

Bali has captured my heart and soul. I have been in Bali three times in the last year, most recently for about a month. It is easy to get lost here, and never leave (believe me, I’m meant to be travelling the East Coast of Australia right now!) Why do I love Bali so much? Within the same day you can hike a volcano for sunrise, snorkel with turtles, surf to your heart’s content, get lost in the rice paddies and dance all night long on the beach, all while munching on some delicious chicken sate! I’ve decided to put together this blog about Bali’s best bits and add some photos from my travels to help you understand my obsession.

Canggu

To me, Canngu has a lot of offer: green, green rice fields, vast beaches with waves for surfing, delicious food- particularly the vegetarian food- a lot of nightlife, so many chilled cafes, lots of yoga studios, cute boutique shops and much more. It is easy to see why many expats base themselves here.

My favourite beach definitely is Berawa Beach. There are great waves here and there is a huge stretch of beach. Many cafes and chilled bars line the beach and it has beautiful sunsets. Most of my evenings were spent here holding a puppy while drinking a Bintang and taking in a stunning sunset.

The following are a list of bars to party in: Old Man’s by Batu Bolong beach for some Bintang and dancing; Pretty Poison for live music, live tattooing and a skate park; Deus for some great bands; Gimme Shelter for some live music with locals; Sand Bar for some late night partying (it alternates between Batu Bolong Beach and Echo Beach.) You are guaranteed many a late night of partying here.

As I said, there are multiple restaurants and cafes to choose from. Believe me, I’ve eaten in most of them! Here are some of my favourites for brunch: Veda; Koi; Canteen; Roti Canai; Cafe Organic and Little Flinders Cafe.

For dinner: La Baracca for pizza mmmm; seafood by Echo beach at sunset- choose the local owned restaurants for better quality and a cheaper price, and Ithaka– try the gado gado, believe me, it’s worth it.

I stayed in Pande Homestay which was a short walk to the many cafes and shops of Batu Bolong. The family are very friendly and helpful and the rooms are basic but cheap. On my second visit, I stayed in FRii Hotel which was nice but slightly overpriced in my opinion- it was in a great location though and had two nice pools.

So, Canggu, great to travel in and VERY livable…although a definite possibility of cabin fever if you don’t get out of it now and then. Luckily, I explored a lot of Bali.

Amed

I spent an amazing weekend in Amed! Picture this: tropical fish of ALL colours only meters from a black stone beach with a clear blue sky and blazing sun; towering volcanoes in the background of an deep orange and navy picture perfect sunset followed by sparkling stars all around. In Amed, I went snorkelling, got up for sunrise and ate delicious food at sunset, oh, and drank Bintang. 

There are many dive schools here too if you want to dive but the snorkelling was so good that I didn’t feel the need to dive.

Uluwatu

Uluwatu: a surfer’s paradise, a beach lover’s dream, a party goer’s Mecca…enough said.

Seminyak

Seminyak is very modern: lots of shops, restaurants, bars, hotels and villas- it is one of the more expensive places in Bali but it is good if all you want to do is stay in beautiful accommodation, stroll around shops in the day and party into the night. I recommend La Favela for a good night out- don’t be intimidated by the police with the machine guns outside!

Nusa Lembongan

My friend recommended Nusa Lembongan to me and boy am I glad that she did. Located about thirty minutes on a ferry from Sanur, Lembongan is very easy to get to. We used Scoot and were picked up from our villa in Seminyak in a private car, got the ferry across and were dropped off at our accommodation on the island- you can  do it cheaper but it was worth it for the convenience.

We spent a brilliant and busy couple of days exploring the island: we visited the stunning blue lagoon, the breathtaking Devil’s Tear and did a memorable *snorkelling trip where we swam with fish of all colours and HUGE Manta Rays!

*Ask for Sudi!

Ubud

Ubud, Ubud, Ubud. I am always drawn back to Ubud and if you have been (or will be persuaded to go after reading this blog!) then you will understand why. Ubud has culture and beauty in the forms of many temples and dance shows, delicious food from a multitude of restaurant, authentic homestays, green, green, GREEN rice fields and undulating rice terraces that stretch as far as the eye can see (even further sometimes!) In Ubud, there are a range of yoga classes and yoga residentials to choose from; we took part in yoga and meditation classes in Ubud Yoga House which is located in the middle of the rice fields and has very experienced and friendly teachers.

On another trip I ventured outside of the center of Ubud, which many people do. The day started exploring the rice fields and ponds full of lillies surrounding this restaurant:

We then travelled onwards by motorbike to one of my favourite places in Bali, and definitely one of my favourite places in the world…

This is Gunung Kawi Temple. This breathtaking temple is a must see in Bali. The story goes that Gajah Mada- a very strong and loyal warrior- carved this temple using only his nail for the first Balinese king, King Udayana. I think the picture captures this but if it doesn’t then note it was overwhelming. I had the same thought that I had as I looked into the bubbling crater of Mount Bromo: I felt so small and insignificant in comparison to its magnitude, but in an awe inspiring and mindful way- it made me understand EVERYTHING so much more; I didn’t need to wonder or question or even think, I was exactly where I was meant to be: in the present.

Afterwards we went to Tirta Empul, a Hindu Balinese water temple. Bring a change of clothes if you want to take part in the blessings here- I didn’t take part as I want to understand the traditions and beliefs of Hinduism before taking part. Even if you don’t want to take part, the temple is definitely still worth a visit- it is popular with both locals and tourists. 

Tirta Empul Temple

We also stopped off at the famous Tellalang rice terraces which are beautiful but I had already visited another of my FAVOURITE places in Bali (and possibly the world!) which is Jatiluwih so Tellalang paled in comparison.

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Day Trips

Because I spent a lot of time in Canggu I did several day trips to explore more of Bali from there. Here are the places we visited:

• Jatiluwih rice terraces- a UNESCO World Heritage Site:

• Danu Tamblingan where we went to Puncak Giri- a swing that is ridiculously high with amazing views of Lake Tamblingan:

• We took a boat trip on Danu Beratan and stumbled across an abandoned villa on the other side of the lake- it was eerily beautiful:

• Ujung Water Palace:

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• Tukad Capung Waterfall:

• Padang Bay, a white beach on the way to Amed from Canggu where we stopped off for a break and a coconut- I drank many coconuts in Bali :

Bias Tugel beach on the left side of Virgin Beach Karangasem

• Bukit Asah hill overlooking the cliffs and ocean- this place had such picturesque views:

• Pengragoan- a beach in West Bali 20 minutes before Medewi surf spot- was absolutely deserted except for a lone fisherman; I felt so at peace here that it also made the top of my favourite places in Bali list. Many a sunset jumping shot was taken here:

More of West Bali:

Oh yeah, and I ended up at a Balinese wedding!

The motorbike ride to these places was breathtaking in itself- the views of strawberry terraces, the rows and rows of rice fields, the mist falling over the highest points of the hills, the miles of deserted beaches and crashing waves- truly breathtaking.

The Gili Islands- Not Bali But Close Enough

A natural trip to take while in Bali is to the Gili Islands: Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. Located about 1.5 hours from Sanur by ferry are these small islands with white sand and clear waters. There are no cars or motorbikes on these islands so you can walk or get a bicycle around them. I went to Gili Trawangan or the ‘party island’ out of the three. It’s true that there are multiple parties here every night of the week but the island itself also has a lot to offer for the day time: snorkelling, diving, boat trips, cycling, swings, beautiful beaches, stunning sunsets and so on. We took a day trip to Lombok- a diverse island of jungle and mountains and coconut trees and white beaches. For nightlife you need to ask a local where the party is at for that particular night as it moves every night. Popular places are: Sama Sama, Evolution Bar, Jiggy’s and Rudy’s Pub. 

And, oh, the sunsets:

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Getting Around Bali

There are many options to get around Bali- a private driver or taxi, shared minivan or motorbike- which makes Bali accessible for all types of travellers and holiday makers. Whatever route you take be sure to take it ALL IN: the culture, the views, the people, the animals, the surf, the food…the MAGIC! No doubt I’ll be back to explore more of this diverse island very soon.

Peace x

Chiang Mai Street Art

I love it in Chiang Mai, located in the north of Thailand; every time I’m here, I discover something different. On this journey- in the cooler time of January- I discovered some interesting street art.

Some animal art:

 
Some smiley faces (and not so smiley faces) art:

  

Some make love not war art:

   
 
And my favourite, some portraits-with-a- twist art:

  
So if you happen to find yourself in this cultural northern city then keep an eye out for the streetart.

Holy Week: The Moriones Festival

I spent the past week exploring a tiny portion of the amazing Philippines and out of the many wonderful experiences I had, I would like to share one unique one with you: The Moriones Festival.

Being one of the only (predominately) Catholic countries in Asia, The Philippines goes all out for Easter. One place that exceeds all in bloody devotion is the town of San Fernando, located about an hour and a half from the capital Manila. On Good Friday, the 19th of April 2014 I encountered the Moriones.

The event greeted me with a splatter of blood to my leg. Masked men with wooden whips flagellate themselves as they march towards the focal point of the day: the place of the crucifixion. They walk for miles in the burning sun with bloody backs.

Close family or friends even flog the devotees with some form of wooden object.

We followed the route of the Moriones until we reached the place of the crucifixion; three tall wooden crosses stood tall on a hill and we battled our way through the crowds for a view of the reenactment.

The crucifixion is reenacted using the Virgin Mary, soldiers and Jesus himself, several characters play Jesus. The devotees who pose as Jesus are nailed to the cross by their hands. Ruben Enaje has carried out the role of Jesus twenty eight times…yes he has been nailed to the cross twenty eight times.

Although not condoned by the Catholic Church, the devotion of the faithful was engraved on their faces. I feel blessed to have witnessed this event, this procession of faith.

Thailand: The Nitty Gritty

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: I love Thailand. I love living here. However, there are some things about this wonderful country that I’ll never get used to, be it good, bad or just plain ugly.

1. Men’s long finger nails, primarily on the baby finger: I’ve since learned that this is used as a ‘tool’ of sorts to unscrew things or to scratch one’s ear. But to me there are cotton buds and screw drivers so please use these instead!

2. Dogs that look dead sleeping almost everywhere: Again I love dogs but I don’t want to run one over…which is a danger as they sprawl across the road unaware (and seemingly uncaring) of their impending death.

3. Taxi men refusing fares: I definitely confused taxi men when I went home to Ireland for Christmas as I asked them would they take me to my desired destination. They cocked their heads to the side and laughed a ‘don’t you know how taxis work’ laugh. I hung my head apologetically as I remembered that taxi men at home went where you wanted them to go, no ‘pai dai mai?’ (CAN you go) necessary, as is the case in Thailand.

4. Whitening cream: I say cream but it’s cream, powder, deodorant…whatever whitening can get in…it’s in!

5: Babies and children on motorbikes…without helmets! If you must put them on one at least make sure they’re wearing a helmet!

6: Nose picking: children and adults alike! It’s nasty so please don’t do it in public.

7: Transportation for tourists: those night buses could easily be cut down in time…if you stopped insisting on ferrying us from cafe to cafe and just GOT US TO OUR DESIRED DESTINATION!

8: Fitting four or more on a motorbike: not disgusted, but impressed.

9: Random pictures: I’ve been asked many a time if I could have my photo taken, or I’ve simply caught sight of a sneaky photo being taken. At first this perplexed me, that is until one wise friend (who’d been living here for a year longer than me) informed me that this was normal, that I needed to “just go with it.” Embracing the advised “just go with it” has led to me being in family photos, from beach to graduation!

10: Patterns: I know mixing patterns is fashionable but I don’t think the rule applies to floral shirt with cartoon pants!

11: Shop greetings: I like shopping. Wait. I LOVE shopping. However, the thrill for me is slightly (totally) numbed when I am greeted, not with a smile and a welcome, but with a shriek of “We have big size”, “Look stretch!” What a way to kill one’s ego, and needlessly lose a customer!

Most of the above are trivial things (apart from putting white on a pedestal and the helmetless infants) so I can put up with them, nothing a healthy dose of ranting can’t cure! You have been warned so look out for (and avoid) the long-finger-nailed-nose- picker!

South East Asia Is My Oyster

Feeling refreshed as I laze by the beautiful, blue pool in my condominium I begin to reflect on my life here in Thailand. I don’t do it very often- reflect that is- but life in Thailand is most certainly worth reflecting on. Today I’m remembering the places I’ve explored: Cambodia, Laos, Hong Kong, Vietnam and Thailand, from North to South.

Initially, I intended to stay in Thailand for one year, however, almost three years on, I am still here and I am still LOVING it. In the beginning, I escaped to an island or the countryside almost every weekend. Being only a couple of hours away, a weekend on a tropical island or swimming in a waterfall is hard to turn down.

Exploring Thailand is a real treat: I have hiked the mountains in the north and lazed on the islands in the south. This month, I will once again stroll through the temples of Chiang Mai and raft down the rivers of Pai. The rich and diverse culture of this colourful country never fails to amaze me.

Although neighbouring countries, I was surprised at how different Cambodia is to Thailand. Different but equally as wonderful. I have been fortunate to see the sun rise at Angkor Wat and humbled to learn more about the painful history in Phnom Pehn. The experiences and knowledge given to me by Cambodia will never be forgotten.

Laos was another unforgettable trip. This charming country offers such beauty; the mountainous landscape, the humble villages and the picturesque towns are well worth a visit.

The vibrant Hong Kong was next on my vacation hit list. The bright lights of the city contrast beautifully with the beach- lined coast. Although afraid of (some) heights, I could appreciate the breathtaking views of both city and beach from (in my mind) terrifying heights!

Vietnam. Vietnam, Vietnam, Vietnam. My dad has always wanted to explore Vietnam: he loves history and has read every book about Vietnam (be it fiction or non- fiction) EVER. Being influenced by his enthusiasm, I developed a desire to visit this country so steeped in history. Vietnam was never top on my list of countries to visit, but it was definitely on a list. Having now been to Vietnam, I can say it is most definitely top on my list of COUNTRIES I MUST EXPLORE MORE. I had just over a week in Vietnam and travelled to Hanoi and Hoi An, similar names but unbelievably contrasting places. I navigated a map to find my way through the fiercely intertwining streets of Hanoi; educated myself in the city’s war museums; drank the deliciously cheap beer; squatted on the tiny chairs as I devoured the tantalizing street food and enjoyed every minute. Then there was Hoi An. The beauty of Hoi An is indescribable. I spent every night ‘ooing’ and ‘awwing’ the colourful lanterns that line the petite streets, and every day ‘ooing’ and ‘awwing’ the beautiful, mustard yellow, French architecture that the lights cling to. Relaxing boat rides, strolling and cycling was how I lazed away my days in Hoi An, as well as exploring the history that this town has to offer. At night I tried tasty food, drank smooth beer, listened to soothing music, waltzed through the colourful markets and ‘ooed’ and ‘awed’ at the lanterns some more. My disappointment at leaving Hoi An was somewhat eased as my anticipated return to Hanoi loomed. By the time I boarded the return plane to Bangkok my map of the city was well and truly worn.

So here I am, back in Bangkok with memories of Cambodia, Laos, Hong Kong, Vietnam and Thailand flooding my mind. And where to next? I have set my sights on Japan and The Philippines. The world is my oyster, and South East Asia is a great place to have begun.